Mersa Matruh

Mersa Matruh

Lying 290 kilometers (about 160 miles) to the west of Alexandria is the modern seaside resort city of Mersa Matruh. With the exception of Alexandria, this is the only other sheltered harbor along the north coast of Egypt. Another 222 kilometers to the west lies the town of Sollum, the last settlement before one comes to the Libyan border. In the centuries preceeding Ptolemaic rule in Egypt, this entire area, the area west of the Nile Delta, was considered by many to be the western boundary of Cyrenaica and inhabited by a people which were known as the Tenehu during the late Late Bronze Age (LBA). During the reign of Ramsis II (1292-1225 B.C.) in the late 19th Dynasty, it is known that a system of fortifications were constructed along the border with Cyrenaica from just east of modern day Mersa Matruh and running southeast towards the Nile Delta region. One of these fortifications, Zawiyet Umm AL-Rakham stood approximately 20 kilometers west of the harbor at Mersa Matruh.

Aerial view of Mersa Matruh and its harbor

During the time that Zawiyet Umm AL-Rakham was occupied, Mersa Matruh was known as "Amouni", or the Path to the God Amoun (Amun). Heading south, across the desert from Amoun for seven days by camel (6-hours by car now-a-days), the Siwa Oasis and the Oracle of Amoun are found. Studies conducted at Zawiyet Umm AL-Rakham in 1946 (Dr. Alan Rowe), excavations conducted in 1949, 1952, 1954, and 1955 (Dr. Labib Habachi), and again in 1994-99 (Dr. Steven Snape, et. al.) revealed evidence of foreign trade in the region during this period in the form of ceramic sherds of Cypriot, Grecian, Cretian, and Palestinian origins. A number small chapels dedicated to deities which were not known to have been worshipped by the Egyptian people were also found. It has been suggested that these possibly were built in order to provide, or entice, foreign traders to visit the fort and thus, to conduct trade. Additionally, 5 storage warehouses were excavated, larger than would have been required for a small garrison of soldiers, which suggest that they were used for the storage of trade goods, either exports or imports.

Zawiyet Umm AL-Rakham

Another site which gives indications of foreign trade during this period is a small island located in the inner harbor of Mersa Matruh. Known in archaeological circles as Bate's Island after Oric Bates, who first proposed foreign trade during the Late Bronze Age in the region in 1915, this site was excavated in 1915 and 1927 by Bates, and again from 1985-1999 by Donald White and has provided much evidence as to the importance of the harbor as a place of trade. Excavations on the island found evidence ceramics of Cypriot fine ware (White Slip, Monochrome, Black Slip, White Shaved, Red Lustrous), as well as plain white and painted white coarse wares. Canaanite amphorae (Palestinian origin) comprised the majority of the storage containers, with Minoan and Mycenaean sherds being a minority. Also present were a large number of open bowls of Egyptian origin, probably for use by the local inhabitants. Also found was evidence of two furnaces and small pieces of bronze, indicating the possible presence of a small metal or casting workshop.

Excavation at Bate's Island

The fortification of Zawiyet Umm AL-Rakham was abandoned suddenly sometime towards the end of Ramses II's reign. One possible reason being the incursion of the Libyan tribes known as "Meshwesh" and "Libu" into the area. Also, towards the end of the 19th Dynasty and into the early 20th Dynasty, the eastern Mediterranean coasts were coming under control of a seafaring group known as the "Sea Peoples", who were raiders who caused political unrest and attempted to control areas along the Egyptian and Palastinian coasts. The Sea Peoples were suspected to being of many origins. The Pelesit (later to be known as Palestinians), Lukka (Lycians from Anatolia), Ekwesh and Denen (possibly Greeks), Sherdans (possibly Sardinians), Teresh (Estruscans), and the Shekelesh (mayby Sicilians). They had settled in the area between Cyrenaica and Mersa Matruh, bringing their families, customs, and culture with them. They apparently integrated well with the Cyrenicians and with their ships, continued to conduct trade. However, it appears that they desired control of Egypt at some point, attacking Egypt in the 5th year of the reign of the Pharoah Merenptah, son of Ramses II, who subsequently defeated them in a 6 hour battle, killing 6,000 men and enslaving the remainder.

Ramses II, Ramses II with his army, Colossi of Ramses II

Additional evidence from the excavations at Bate's Island also yielded evidence of trade with the Greeks dating as late as 600 B.C. until 300 B.C. indicating that Mersa Matruh was, by this time, on the regular trade route between Crete and Egypt.

Alexander the Great, on his way to visit the Oracle of Amoun at the Siwa Oasis in January of 331 B.C., traveled from Alexandria along the north coast to the city of Mersa Matruh, by this time known as "Paraetonium" when the Romans invaded Egypt and throughout the duration of the Ptolemaic era, indicating that at that time it was a developed settlement or small city where supplies could be procured before heading south into the desert.

Evidence of occupation in the region continued throughout the Ptolemaic era and into the Fatimid period. However, foreign trade at Mersa Matruh experienced a steady decline throughout these periods due to the development of the major port of Alexandria with its access to the Nile and transportation routes to Cairo.

In March 1996, and again in April 1998 the Institute of Nautical Archaeology-Egypt in cooperation with the Supreme Council of Antiquities (SCA) conducted a survey of 17 underwater sites and 6 ancient harbors along the north coast of Egypt between Sidi Abd IL-Rahman and Zawiyet Umm AL-Rakham. Amphorae and ceramics were found in numerous locations along the coast further indicating a flourishing trade between Egypt, Crete, Turkey, and possibly with the Red Sea.

In mid-2008, a brief survey of the entrance of the Mersa Matruh harbor was conducted by the Egyptian Department of Underwater Archaeology with the assistance of a non-Egyptian amatuer archaeologist. Results of this survey found numerous amphorae, some complete, located behind the reef lying at the entrance to the harbor. This included an area that appears to have possibly been a dumping ground for broken or unwanted amphora, or evidence of a vessel which foundered on the reef. Lying in the area immediately south of the reef were also found the wooden remains of one at least one wooden ship, some pieces which had copper sheathing still attached. Evaluation of the copper sheathing and bronze fasteners recorded indicate a vessel from the late-18th to early 19th century sailing vessel which bears further investigation.

To date (2009), there has been no significant underwater archaeological study in the waters lying in the harbor of Mersa Matruh, or in the waters lying just offshore. However, based on the terrestrial evidence found in the region, it is quite possible that there is much additional evidence which may be found lying just offshore which will increase our knowledge and understanding of the development of past trade, trade routes, and development of the region from the past to the present.